Axolotl

Leucistic Golden Red Eye Axolotl (Ambystoma mexicanum)

Overview:
The Leucistic Golden Red Eye Axolotl is a stunning and uncommon morph, featuring a soft golden to pale yellow body with delicate external gills and striking red eyes. Its warm coloration and calm temperament make it a unique and eye-catching addition to any cool freshwater axolotl aquarium.

Origin:
Axolotls are native to Lake Xochimilco in Mexico and are critically endangered in the wild. All axolotls available in the aquarium trade are captive bred.

Feeding:
Carnivorous. Feed a varied diet of high-quality axolotl pellets, earthworms, bloodworms, and other suitable frozen or live foods. Juveniles should be fed daily, while adults are fed 2–3 times per week.

Tank / Setup Requirements:

• Minimum tank size: 75 litres (20 gallons) per axolotl

• Fine sand or bare-bottom setup recommended (never use gravel)

• Provide hides such as caves or PVC pipes

• Very low water flow is essential, as axolotls are sensitive to strong currents

• Smooth décor only to prevent skin and gill damage

Tank Mates:
Best kept alone or with other axolotls of similar size. Fish and invertebrates are not recommended, as they may be eaten or cause stress or injury.

Aggression:
Generally peaceful but opportunistic. May nip tank mates if overcrowded or underfed.

Experience Level:
Intermediate. Requires cool, stable water temperatures and consistent water quality.

Water Parameters:

• Temperature: 14–20°C (57–68°F)

• pH: 6.5–8.0

• Water Type: Freshwater

• Ammonia & Nitrite: 0 ppm

• Nitrate: <20 ppm

Axolotl (Ambystoma Mexicanum) is a very unique salamander species that lives its entire life in the “larval” stage. It never becomes land-dwelling and is instead fully aquatic with external gills. This Mexican native is critically endangered in the wild, but is captive-bred by many aquarists and has been developed into many exceptional colour morphs. It attains an impressive, but manageable size, and it is relatively easy in care provided that a few very important needs are met.

Two of the most important aspects of Axolotl care are water temperature and water flow. It is not a tropical animal, so it is critical that its aquarium is kept below 70°F (21°C), with 60-65°F (15.5-18.3°C) being more ideal. While this temperature can often be achieved by keeping the tank at “room temperature” with no heater, it is important to consider any temperature increase that might be caused by aquarium equipment, particularly lighting. If the Axolotl is kept at too high of a temperature for more than a very brief period, it will typically stop eating and deteriorate rapidly, eventually resulting in death. It will not adapt to long-term high temperatures. It requires low water flow that is not concentrated into any direct-flow areas. 

A spray bar is very useful for this species. 

The Axolotl is not afraid to jump, so a tight-fitting lid is necessary to prevent it from escaping the aquarium.

The Axolotl is primarily nocturnal, but will often become active during daytime hours once established in an aquarium with plenty of smooth driftwood, plants, and other hiding places. Its skin is easily damaged, so decor with sharp edges should never be used. It does not require lighting at all, and it will be more outgoing with at least subdued lighting. Floating plants can help with diffusing light. Another crucial aspect of Axolotl housing is the substrate. It will often eat or try to eat anything that will fit in its mouth. No gravels should not be used for this reason, as they can cause impaction of the digestive tract of this species. A good rule of thumb is that the Axolotl will try to eat anything up to the size of its head. Very fine, aquarium-safe sand is a viable option for a more naturalistic-looking Axolotl aquascape, though many Axolotl keepers opt to use no substrate at all. While it does not require a particularly large aquarium for its adult size, the Axolotl does require very clean water and effective filtration with a regular water change regimen.

Due to its size and unique requirements, there are very few possible or appropriate tankmates for the Axolotl. Juveniles are notorious for biting off the limbs of other juveniles. While this species has the incredible ability to completely regenerate complete limbs, feet, and digits, there is still the possibility of infection from such attacks and juveniles should not be housed together. Adults of the same size can sometimes cohabitate, but it is not necessarily ideal for purposes other than breeding. If adults are to be kept together for purposes other than breeding, it must be in a gender-specific aquarium of all males or all females. Males will relentlessly pursue females for breeding, which will result in overbreeding and eventually death of the female in an aquarium setting. Females typically should no more than two spawns per year if they are breeding at all. The Axolotl is not a social species and does not benefit from being kept with its own kind. It will at least attempt to eat any animal that might fit in its mouth, so small tankmates will always be at risk. Other more active, boisterous, larger animals (especially fish) are often prone to pick at the Axolotl, especially at its feathery external gills. The naturally cool water Marimo Moss Balls are an ideal plant for the Axolotl aquarium. Other than hardy, low-light plants (such as Anubias, Java Fern, various mosses) that can possibly tolerate the lower temperature, the Axolotl is best kept in its own species tank.

With proper care, the Axolotl will typically live 10 years or more, and some specimens have been known to live more than twice than long in some instances. Like virtually all of its fellow amphibians, the Axolotl should not be handled unless absolutely necessary. If it must be removed from its aquarium in a rare instance, a fine mesh net is required so that the appendages, gills, and fragile skin of the Axolotl are not damaged.

Feeding is easy for the Axolotl. Live night-crawlers (earthworms) and blackworms are excellent staples. Many specimens will also eat appropriately-sized meaty, frozen foods and cooked shrimp as well as dry foods formulated for salamanders and other amphibians. Mammal-based foods are generally too fatty and should not be offered unless absolutely necessary. The Axolotl eats relatively heavily and should be fed daily and, in the case of juveniles, generously. Spot-feeding near the mouth of the Axolotl with forceps or a feeding stick is often helpful and will reduce uneaten food. Uneaten food should be removed and replaced daily.